I’m not going to lie, the term POWER SUIT makes me cringe a bit. Yes, the right suit can help you look powerful, at least if it fits you perfectly, but just donning a suit does not by itself do the job. There are other pieces to the puzzle. So if you're going into a situation where you want people to sit up and take notice when you walk in, read on for 4 easy tips on how to manage your appearance.
1) Straight lines and angles in patterns and clothing silhouettes signal authority. An easy way to apply the former is with ties: the tie above left is much stronger because of its angularity than the tie to the right with its curved lines. For silhouettes, you can see this everywhere from glasses, to suits, to sport jackets (if you wear glasses, my article on how to choose glasses frames is a must-read). For example, a squared-off jacket shoulder is more commanding than a soft shoulder. 
2) Adopting the posture and body language associated with dominance, can change not only how others perceive you, but also how you feel about yourself. Check out this fascinating TED Talk by Harvard Professor and social psychologist Amy Cuddy. According to her research, if you spend just two minutes in “power poses” before going into an evaluative situation like a job interview (you can do them in a bathroom stall), the benefits will be considerable.3) Dark colors in general, and high contrast color combinations like deep navy and white, are commanding and will cause others to perceive you as powerful (that’s why a tuxedo is typically black and white).4) Crisp clothing textures are more authoritative than rough textures. So if you are going into a situation where you want to be received that way, you should wear a crisp suit, a pressed and non-textured dress shirt and a smooth tie.The nice thing about looking more powerful is that it actually causes you to feel that way, and that in turn affects how you act, causing you to take more "leader-worthy" steps. Of course, the flip side is that many leaders can appear too dominant, without having communicated warmth in a way that allows them first to build trust with the people they are trying to lead. Stay tuned for more on how to fine-tune your image so that you strike the perfect balance.
Are You Second-Glance Worthy?
Sure, women are affected by what you’re wearing, but whether or not they swoon over you is about much more than that. Whether you’re new to the dating scene and ready to turn heads, or you’re in a relationship and want to show your partner the best version of yourself, read on for 8 tips on taking your attractiveness to the next level.1) Don’t overdo the cologne. A small spritz on one or both wrists then a dab, wrist to neck, will do the trick. Also, make sure the scent you use works with your body chemistry. You can do this by testing it at the store then seeing if you still like the way it smells on you after half an hour or so. And if you wear aftershave, remember that has a scent too. It should not be overpowering, especially in combination with your cologne.2) Everyone looks better when they smile. In order to make your smile as attractive as possible, it’s imperative that you take good care of your teeth. Have them whitened professionally or use an at-home system. Consider a retainer or Invisalign for crooked teeth.3) Trim the hair around your eyebrows and ears as needed. Keep the rest of your body hair in check, including having the back of your neck cleaned up between haircuts.4) Keep your nails clean and trim. Chewed up fingernails will make you look nervous, and dirty nails are just plain unappetizing.5) Use a tongue cleaner and mouth wash to combat bad breath and carry breath strips or altoids when out on a date.6) Be chivalrous. This one's common sense, but it's often neglected. It's simple: hold the door for her, open her car door, and tell her she looks nice (in a non-slimy way).7) I have a new client who mentioned that he has a flip phone. I’m not saying you need to have the latest and greatest of everything, but make sure you at least stay current with technology. An extremely outdated phone is not a good look!8) Be confident in your appearance. When you look good (and you know it), you'll naturally feel better about yourself. As a result, you'll radiate effortless, positive energy and confidence, which becomes contagious and magnetic, and therefore others will respond to you with the same positivity that you reflect.Do any of these tips resonate? In the comments below, let me know what strategy you’re going to try first and what tips you have to make yourself attractive.Cheers,Julie(Image via Esquire.com.)
Free Your Feet: Summer Shoes
Even naked isn’t naked enough in the ridiculous heat and humidity we've been having on the east coast. In my last article, I listed hot weather survival measures for clothing and grooming, but this time shoes are on my mind. If you’ve never switched up your footwear when the temperature rises and your dogs start barking, I urge you to consider it. You’ll look more seasonally appropriate, and your feet will thank you. Read on for Rath-approved picks in 8 categories of summer footwear.
1) EspadrillesThese stylishly nonchalant espadrilles from Castañer ($150) are an excellent alternative to flip-flops for those wanting more toe coverage.____________________________________________________________________________________
2) Leisure ShoesOk, so this category is totally made-up. But the name fits these Riviera shoes ($80), doesn’t it? Don’t wear for anything other than leisure.____________________________________________________________________________________
3) The Mandal (if you dare)If you’re a Rath & Co. client, you know I’m big into the messages that one’s appearance gives off. In the case of mandals, most of what I see around says, “I’m sensitive and I recycle.” While these are no doubt virtues, there's no need to express them via your footwear. My suggestion: ditch the Velcro and bungee cords, and dial it back with a simpler, more classic version of the mandal, like the pair above from Alvaro ($295). When buying mandals, I highly recommend trying on in the store before committing. You need to see them on your feet in order to know if they’re going work for you.____________________________________________________________________________________
4) Flip-FlopsNot ready to go full-mandal but still want to give those dogs some breathing room? Try a leather flip-flop like these from Olukai ($85). It’s classier than the rubber or fabric versions. Just promise you’ll only wear it for beach and pool.____________________________________________________________________________________
5) BucksMore office-friendly than the other options above, bucks work for casual to moderately dressy places of work like advertising agencies or web development firms. Wear a pair like the ones above from J. Crew ($198) with summery chino and seersucker suits or with button-up shirts and chinos.____________________________________________________________________________________
6) Buck AlternativesIf bucks are too much for you, try a casual lace-up sans rubber sole for a similar, but less statement-y look. I have my eye on these from Crockett & Jones ($505) for a couple of clients. They're unlined and light weight which = summer perfection in my book.____________________________________________________________________________________
7) Slip-OnsExcellent with everything from a summer suit to shorts, these leather slip-ons ($150) are modeled after a traditional Indian sailing vessel, the Kishtee. Think of them as the cooler, older brother to your traditional deck shoe. They're also great for travel because they're so lightweight.____________________________________________________________________________________
8) Social SneaksThese are the sneakers you don't wear to the gym. I like the clean lines of Fred Perry's Seabrights ($125) for a timeless look.____________________________________________________________________________________What's your footwear of choice this summer? As always, I love hearing from you. Leave me a comment below, or if you'd like more tailored help with your summer footwear game, contact me.Cheers,Julie
Heat Wave Style
Scorching hot temps got you down? When it’s 90+ degrees out, you are definitely going to do some sweating. But there are ways you can prepare so that you minimize the damage to your wardrobe and appearance. Below are 11 tips for keeping cool and confident this summer.Grooming1) Take your morning shower with the coldest water you can stand, and use a cooling soap with mint.2) When you get out of the shower, powder your feet, armpits and groin to help keep you dry. Menscience body powder uses cornstarch and zinc oxide instead of talc (which has shown to have negative health effects) and was formulated for all-over use.3) Use deodorant with antiperspirant, which slows the production of underarm sweat. 
4) Apply a cooling product like Korres's Greek Yogurt Cooling Gel as needed, post-shower. It’s designed for sunburns, but does a great job relieving all sensations of heat from your body.5) Face wipes also make you feel and look cool by absorbing grease and oil.6) Get your hair cut shorter and more frequently during warm months (including cleanups for the hair on the back of your neck and around your ears).Clothing7) My guiding principle is that clothing should always fit impeccably, but in the summer months, I am OK with slightly looser fits to facilitate airflow, especially for items like linen shirts and pants.8) Dark colors absorb sunlight and therefore heat, so opt for light colors like white, off-white, light grey, beige, and pastels, all of which present as more seasonally appropriate as well. 
9) Choose natural fibers that breathe and are good at absorbing moisture. These include tropical weight wools, seersucker (not just for suits), linen (try in a tie if you wear one every day), hopsack, light cottons (opt for cotton broadcloth vs. a heavier oxford), cashmere, and silk. I like Bonobos' lightweight chinos and the summer weight casual top above left and right. When shopping, be sure to read labels and avoid anything with nylon or polyester in it.10) A quarter-lined or unlined suit jacket or sport coat will be lighter on your body than one with a full lining. (Note: this type of unconstructed jacket is inherently more casual than those with full linings, so be wise about where you wear them). If you go quarter lining, make sure the lining is made from Bemberg, which does a better job than silk of wicking moisture from your body.Plan Ahead11) Keep your office stocked with a backup shirt (especially good if you have a big meeting at the end of the day or dinner/drinks after work), face wipes mentioned above, and a bottle of deodorant. That way you're set if things get sticky.How do you stay cool and comfortable in the summer months and still look like you mean business?
Sink or Swim: Your Guide to Summer’s Best Swimsuits
If there’s one place you want to look your best, I would venture to say at the beach or poolside would be at the top of the list. After all, that’s where (presumably) you’ll be as close to naked as you’ll ever get in public. Thanks in large part to the James Bond movie "Casino Royale," which features a taut Daniel Craig emerging from the water in short, tight swim trunks, men's swim styles have been moving gradually toward higher hemlines and more tailored cuts. While not everyone has the build or desire to bare quite as much as 007, abbreviated and tailored looks are in fact more flattering and mature in feel than the oversized, extra-long trunks you may be used to. My clients are always pleasantly surprised at what a couple fewer inches and a narrower trouser-like cut can do. With that in mind, below are 6 Rath-approved swimsuits for Summer 2013, with a little something for everybody.
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Universally Flattering
With its flat waistband, mid-thigh length, constructed fly and trim leg openings, this classic style from Hartford($165) looks good on just about everyone. Bonus tip: for the most flattering leg width, you should be able to fit 2-3 fingers in the bottom leg opening of your suit.
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Bold Prints
Go for classy and/or beach-inspired graphics and avoid anything that involves dragons or fire-breathing (or both). I like this cheeky shark-tooth number from Paul Smith (£89).
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Show-Off
You're in great shape. Why not sport your swim gear with cool confidence? The flattering trouser-like cuts from Orlebar Brown (£125-160) -- note the waistband side adjusters -- allow them to transition perfectly from beach to post-beach cocktails (add linen shirt and stir well). Try the Bulldog cut if you're a little daring (modeling pict below), and the Setters if you're a lot daring (see also "European Vacation" below).
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Modest
Is going to the gym a foreign concept to you? Don't worry, you can still hit the beach with panache. Look for swimwear in dark (read: slimming) colors, hemlines that hit an inch or two above your knee, and comfortably trim leg openings like those above from Bonobos ($65). Also, a waistband that's flat in front with elastic in back can be both flattering and comfortable if you have a bit of a belly.
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Surf
Say sayonara to your old ballooning board shorts. The new guard is updated and upgraded. Brands like Sundek ($119) will give you a great fit while maintaining the comfort and movement you'll need to hang ten. Dig the retro vibe of the rainbow bands.
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European Vacation
I know some guys who have an entirely different set of swimwear for when they travel to Europe. There you can get away with 2" inseams, and no one will bat an eye. You can rock a shorter short in the US too: this style is especially good for slim builds, and of course you must wear it confidently. It also helps if your name has the number 7 in it (see intro). Since you're going there, you might as well have fun with bold colors and/or patterns. Try Parke & Ronen's Angeleno ($125) cut if this appeals to you.
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Made-to-Measure
File this under the category of "so not necessary you just might need it". If you're a tricky fit, you can always consider having your swim trunks custom made for you.
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What are you planning on wearing to the beach this summer? If you need personalized help with your beach threads, drop me a line.Happy Summer!Julie
For Love of Linen
Want to do something nice for yourself this summer? Love yourself up by adding linen to your wardrobe. Men are relatively limited in their options for staying breezy on blazing hot summer days, but as I’ve mentioned before, linen is a hot weather essential due to its lightweight and breathable qualities. The reason it can keep you comfortable is that the cloth absorbs up to 20% moisture without feeling wet.You can buy linen either off-the-rack or through a custom clothier (if you’re a R&Co. client, you know how crazy I am for custom). Check out these fabric swatches below for some linen sportcoats I recently ordered for two clients.
Fabrics can made solely of linen as with the shirt below from Hartford, or they can be blended with other fabrics for a more refined look. The fabrics for the sportcoats above are combined with cashmere and silk, which makes them drape beautifully. We'll pair them with everything from jeans and a henley or v-neck t-shirt to dress pants and a dress shirt and pocket square.Ninja stylist tip for staying cool: if you custom order a linen (or any summer fabric for that matter) sportcoat or suit, ask for it to have no lining or a quarter lining. This works wonders.
I know, linen wrinkles. If this really bothers you, give it a shot and see if you can get beyond it. Embrace the imperfection. Would you rather be drenched in sweat or easy-breezy with a few creases in your clothes?
Aside from the obvious: linen shirts, suits, sportcoats, and shorts, you can also look for vests made of linen, like the one above from J. Crew. Vests are an ideal warm-weather solution for getting the level of formality inherent to having an added layer over your dress shirt, without the extra weight of a sportcoat or suit jacket.
For casual social occasions, or if your office isn't dressy, consider wearing a linen tie like the one above from Pierrepont Hicks. It's seasonally appropriate and has the added bonus of keeping your neck much cooler than a heavier silk would.
Other linen accessories you can work in your summer repertoire include pocket squares and shoes (above left and right). While they won't necessarily keep temperatures down, you will certainly look cool in them!How do you plan on wearing linen this summer?
Gifts for the Dapper Dad
Growing up, my idea of fun was hitting the local menswear store and picking out ties for my dad. (Yah I know, I'm a good time.) And Father's Day was always one of my favorite holidays because it gave me an excuse to do just that. If you're not as fanatical about menswear as I am and need inspiration on what to give this year (or if you're a dad and want to give hints), read on for my Father's Day gift list.
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Dressy Dad
These unique rose gold cufflinks ($550) are refined yet manly. The broad range of colors within the mother of pearl makes them easy to match.
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Snappy Ankles Dad
One of the easiest, most low-commitment ways to up your style game is with socks. If your dad needs extra help in this department (if he wears black Gold Toe's everyday, the answer is yes), get him a few pairs from Paul Smith. They make a great variety of colors and patterns, and the socks themselves are durable ($30). Note that the more colors there are in the pattern, the easier it will be for him to match them to his outfit. For my Sock Matching 101 guide, click here.
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Festive Dad
Does your dad (a) like to make a statement or (b) know how to have fun? Then these embroidered Dia de los Muertes slippers ($325) may be the perfect gift for him.
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Practical Dad
Bulky pants pockets are definitely not dapper. If your dad suffers from overstuffed wallet syndrome, help him streamline with this handsome crocodile money clip ($125).
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Traveling Dad
Many of my clients travel nonstop, often to different countries, and this multi-currency wallet would simplify things for them ($285). Make the gift extra-special by having it gold-stamped -- you can choose from a variety of different motifs and/or lettering.
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Aesthete Dad
For the dad that has everything, this vintage table box inset with a silk Hermes scarf would make a fantastic addition to his repertoire (contact store for price).
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Need more tailored gift-giving help? Contact me. And have a happy Father's Day!
What to Wear for Video Conferencing
Men's Personal Shopper: What to Wear for Video Conferencing
You’re wearing a shirt and tie along with your boxer shorts and slippers. Let me guess…you’re on a Zoom call. Am I right? Well, you're not the only one In fact, one of my clients recently confessed he had done just that. Though the correct camera angle can conceal what shouldn't be seen, you should still focus on your overall telepresence. There are many aspects to this, beyond whether or not you are wearing pants. Read on for 7 suggestions on how best to present yourself for video conferencing, including what to wear and related etiquette points.
1) Wear a full outfit
Business on top and party on bottom works in some situations -- but not here. What if you have to jump up from your desk to adjust lighting or equipment? Not to mention, being dressed professionally from head to toe (including shoes) will put you in a productive business mindset.
2) No busy patterns
Much like with what to wear for headshots, you shouldn’t wear anything that’s apt to distract the person with whom you’re conferencing. Busy patterns can become wavy lines on video, so stick with subtle patterns or solids. Generally, blues and purples look good, and you should avoid white, black or red. Also, if you’re sitting against a solid background, make sure you don’t wear the same color as that of the wall behind you.
3) Check yourself
Before starting the call, make sure everything is in place visually by either previewing yourself on your computer camera or recording a test video of yourself using software like Vodburner (for Windows) or Pamela (for Mac). Check out your teeth and your nose to make sure nothing is where it shouldn’t be. Also, take a look at your hair. It may look fine in the bathroom mirror but fuzzy and strange on camera depending on how much light is behind you. You may need some extra product, and previewing yourself is the best way to determine that.
4) Background and lighting
Be sure you have a clutter-free background and a quiet environment with no distractions or interruptions. For lighting, natural light is best, but if you aren’t near a window, make sure the room is well-lit (video looks grainier when it’s dark) and that no bright lights are shining on you. Try to position the light so it’s right behind the computer screen so that the other person isn’t looking into a bright light. If the light is too bright, try covering it with a cloth to soften the effect.
5) Look at the camera, not the screen
It’s awkward at first and takes some getting used to, but in order to create the best experience for the other user, you should be looking at the camera, not the screen. One trick to doing this is to make his or her window small and drag it as close to the webcam as possible. Also, turn off the window that allows you to see yourself during the call. It can be tempting to check yourself out, but it’s distracting to the other person.
6) Body language
In contrast to a face-to-face meeting in an office or boardroom, in a video call all the other user sees is you, chest up. So small actions or habits like clicking your pen or rubbing your face will register more on video. Here are some other body language and setup considerations:
Sit up straight (not off to the side).
Smile – this can be hard to do when you’re not right in front of the person, but it’s important.
If you can sit slightly back from the camera, do it. You will look better proportioned on the screen.
Plug your laptop in instead of running it on battery power, which may default to poorer video or sound quality.
Angle the camera so that it’s at eye level or else pointing down at you. If it’s aiming up at you, it won't be the most flattering angle.
Once you’ve got your setup, don’t adjust it during the call unless the other person asks you to, as this can be very distracting.
7) Don’t multitask
The person you’re conferencing with will know when you’re not paying attention, so avoid embarrassment and turn off all other programs on your computer. That way there won’t be any unexpected sounds going off, and you won’t be tempted to look at your email (the other user can hear you typing!).I realize this is a lot to think about for a simple video call, but it's absolutely worth it. Invest the time and effort up front creating a strategy that works, and it will make each subsequent call easier.What are your strategies for successful video conferencing?
Do You Wish You Got More Sleep?
Sounds good, right? With some foresight and planning, you can save valuable time in the morning so you can have that extra 10 minutes in bed. Read on for 13 tips on getting out the door quickly, efficiently, and of course stylishly.
1) Lay your clothes out the night before. We learned this back in grade school, but at some point along the way we stopped doing it. If you have the space, get a wardrobe valet to keep things neat and visible as you make your selections. It also helps to check the weather so you can decide on what shoes and outerwear you’ll need.2) Maintain an organized closet so that you can find everything you need the moment you need it. For my tips on how purge your closet, click here.3) Once you’ve cleared out the things you don’t need, keep your clothing organized by type (suits with suits, blazers with blazers, shirts with shirts, etc.), then by color within each type. Again, it’s all about easy access.4) If you don’t have heavy beard growth, shave the night before. This also reduces irritation.5) Put your keys on top of anything you need to bring with you, like the Netflix envelope you’ve been meaning to mail for the past few days.
6) Keep all the things you know you'll need right before you walk out the door in one handy place, for example in a basket in your closet, or in a hallway drawer. This might include a lint-brush, hair product, glasses, sunglasses, change for coffee/the paper, mobile device, wallet, office security badge, transit pass.7) If you find yourself always hitting the snooze button and running behind as a result, put your clock across the room from your bed so you have to get up to turn it off. If you’re notorious for bagging your morning workout, put your sneakers on top of your alarm clock for extra motivation – again, on the other side of the room from your bed.8) Create an upbeat playlist to keep time as you get ready – the first song for your shower, the second for getting dressed, the third for breakfast, and the fourth for finishing touches and walking out the door.9) Set up your coffee machine or the blender with your smoothie ingredients the night before.10) When you get home at the end of the day, put everything back where it belongs (that way you aren’t going crazy looking for your tan belt the next day).And here are three terrific bonus tips from my friend and client Tony Martignetti:11) Have 2 or 3 combinations that you know with certainty are perfect for different occasions: casual, biz casual and Wall Street. You can go to these quickly when there isn't time to be creative and thoughtful. [Rath & Co. note: your stylist can create a pictorial wardrobe layout or a spreadsheet listing these combinations for easy reference.]12) Get your shirts washed and pressed before you need them. Always have plenty of clean shirts to choose from.
13) Know which shoes go with which belts. As you're putting on the belt, you envision the shoes.Thanks to Tony for his additions. (For more of Tony and a few laughs, check out these video style tutorials Tony and I shot: on mixing high and low in menswear here, and on how the perfect leather jacket should fit here.)How do you save time in the morning? Feel free to share your tips below.
Jean-eology: How to Find Flattering Jeans
Having good jeans is not hereditary or otherwise beyond your control. But it does take know-how and patience. The wrong jeans can send the wrong message entirely. So this is one you want to get right. Read on for the definitive Rath & Co. guide to shopping for denim.
The Most Flattering Style
Just about everyone looks good in a pair of inky blue, straight-leg jeans. This is the first basic pair that I recommend everyone should have. It’s timeless.
The Best Style for Your Build
What does the perfect pair of jeans look like? Well, that depends on your physical proportions.
- If you're of average build, good styles for you include RRL Straight Leg, 7 Standard Classic Straight Leg, J Brand Kane or Citizens of Humanity Sid.
- If you’re slim, try 7 Jeans Slimmy. Don’t let the name freak you out – these aren’t skinny jeans. The Slimmy’s are cut straight, without a lot of excess room in the leg and with a slight taper toward the ankle. I’ve had many conservative clients love the fit of these. Billy Reid's Slim Jean is another good choice.
- If your thighs are built, try Joe's Straight Leg Classic or AG The Protégé.
- If your waist size is larger than your inseam and/or you need more room overall, check out 7 Jeans’ Austyn cut. Sometimes loose cuts (of anything, really) can make you look larger than you actually are, but these give you room to breathe while still looking flattering.
- If your rise is low (this is the distance between your waist and the bottom of your crotch), Hudson’s Byron cut is an excellent option.
Note: Aside from cuts, there's a huge variety of pocket styles among different types of denim. This is an important factor because you want to make sure that the rear pockets are not too long for your seat. For example, I’ve found that with clients 5’ 8” and under, the pockets on the 7 Standard Classic jeans are too long and end up making the client look misproportioned.
Washes and Colors
Once you’ve got the dressier dark blue rinse, you'll want to get a more casual rinse that’s a little lighter in color (see above). These are for weekend afternoons and low-key trips to your favorite watering hole.
Another easy way to add versatility to your denim wardrobe is to introduce colors aside from blue. I’m a big fan of grey, white, off-white (the latter two especially good for warm weather; see above) and other interesting shades like red. If this appeals to you, check out Rag & Bone for an array of unique washes which change each season. Last Fall, I styled a client in a pair of burgundy AG’s and orange suede Louis Vuitton driving loafers. It was a very cool look! Note that if you go with white (a bold, confident choice), make sure you keep them spotless.
Savvy Shopping Tips
- Unless you’re buying selvedge denim (a thicker, stiffer type of Japanese denim), most jeans will slacken up to one size as you wear them. So it’s good if they're a little snug when you buy them.
- Sizing varies from brand to brand. If you’re 34 in one brand, you may be 33 in another.
- Always check out your rear view in a three-way mirror when trying on jeans. What looks like a party in the front may be droopy drawers in the back. And make sure to wear a belt when trying on – this will help indicate what fits and what doesn’t. Your jeans are too big if your belt hikes your belt loops up toward your seat, or if you have crimping anywhere along the waist.
- Set aside a chunk of time and try on as many pairs as you can. A few times a client and I had thought we’d found The Right Pair, only to try on one more style and find one that's even better. It pays to spend a little time doing this.
Tailoring
- Once you’ve found jeans that turn heads, you may need to have them tailored. If they need hemming, make sure you bring with you to the tailor whatever shoes you’ll be wearing most frequently with them.
- Ask your tailor to reattach the original bottom hem after shortening them (they don’t always offer this without your asking).
- If you’re having slim or straight-leg jeans hemmed, pay attention to where the tailor is going to cut them. Sometimes shortening jeans can compromise the desired slimness in the leg, so in order to maintain the integrity of the cut, you should have them tapered slightly toward the ankle as well.
Side note: if you like the look of cuffed jeans (see "Washes and Colors" above), you can skip the hemming and roll 1.5" cuffs.
To Be Avoided at All Costs
Not to be dramatic, but please don’t be caught dead in any of the following jean-related offenses: heavily contrasting stitching, (No), obnoxiously-patterned pockets (Double No), very pronounced whiskering or distressing (feels artificial and is not slimming), boot cuts (save it for the cowboys), or black jeans (this worked for the "November Rain" video but little else).
Take Care
Wash your jeans inside out to maintain the color.
Pricetag
In general, you get what you pay for with jeans – up to a certain point. A $50 pair of jeans from Uniqlo is a good option if you’re watching your budget, but know that they won’t last as long as a pair of Citizens, for example, that cost $175. Do the math: in some instances, it makes more sense to invest in quality up front rather than have to replace inexpensive jeans every year. All of that said, I have a client who had been talked into buying several pairs of $1K plus Louis Vuitton denim by an overzealous salesperson before he started shopping with me. Perhaps you cannot put a price on that which makes your butt look good, but really, it’s not necessary to spend more than $250-$275 to get a solid pair of jeans. Once I started shopping for that client, I found him a whole slew of denim that cost less than ¼ of what he had spent previously – and he liked them better than the super-pricey ones.
The Canadian Tuxedo…?
Ever wonder if you’re cool enough to rock the jean-on-jean look? Well, you are! You just need to know how to do it. The key to wearing jeans on bottom with jeans on top is to make sure each item is a distinctly different wash from the other. A fail-safe way to do this is to combine a light rinse denim top with a dark, selvedge jean. A light rinse denim top also looks clean and crispy with white jeans.I know all of this may sound complicated, but trust me, putting a little effort into your jean shopping will go a long way. If you'd like tailored help with achieving denim excellence, contact me.Cheers,Julie
How to Turn Heads This Season: Spring-Summer 2013 Trend Report
It’s been a long, frosty winter, and I am thrilled to write this Spring/Summer 2013 trend report. Below are 4 Spring trends to take note of and corresponding shopping suggestions. As always, it’s up to you how literal you want to go with these. You can adapt them loosely for a subdued look or embrace them more fully, as in the runway images below. Either way, enjoy!
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Trend #1: Africa
Mixing ethnic and tribal prints with classic shapes is key to making this trend wearable. Ikat (one of the oldest patterns around, though its exact origin is unknown) is a great way to rock the look. The clean silhouette and large masculine gridlines on this Balmain shirt ground the lively print, making it suitable for an everyday casual vibe.
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Trend #2: Globe Trotter
This trend incorporates a wide variety of cultural references, while using comfortable fabrics which work well for the frequent traveler. Consider materials like bleached chambray, linen knits, tissue linen, crinkled leather and destroyed denim. This slim-fit cotton and linen blazer from Canali would be the perfect traveling companion and a classic way to adapt this style. Throw your shades in the breast pocket for added sophistication.
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Trend #3: Seafarer
One of my personal faves, this trend brings the nautical look from the deep blue to the streets. Look for sailor stripes, lightweight peacoats, double-breasted jackets, and scarf prints. I like the stripe placement on these Michael Bastian tops below left and right because they broaden you across the chest and shoulders, creating a nice V-shape down to your waist.
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Trend #4: Tailored Sport
Tailored Sport is a good example of a trend you likely won't want to interpret literally. I can't think of any clients with situations where it would make sense to wear warm-up pants with a sportcoat. But, if elements of this look appeal to you, take inspiration from sporty materials like nylon, pique, and polished cotton. This Sacai jacket is nicely tailored and would work well either to and from the tennis court or out to a casual dinner.
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How will you be freshening up your look this Spring?
Cheers to peeling off the layers!
Julie
Product Review: Tommy John Undershirt
Do you have Excess Fabric Gut? What about Bacon Neck? I was fitting a client recently for dress shirts and suits, and I noticed extra undershirt fabric around his middle that was interfering with the flattering fit of his clothing. Underwear lays the foundation for your appearance, so getting your undershirts right is key to a sharp, fitted look.
As menswear has evolved to be more fitted, it no longer makes sense to wear outdated boxy undershirts. Tom Patterson, founder of Tommy John undergarments, was kind enough to send me samples of his Second Skin Deep Vneck Stay Tucked Undershirt (below) for one of my clients to test out in the hopes of eliminating this problem. Here's the feedback my client gave.
-He found them very comfortable and reported that they held their cling even after several washes. "I actually ordered more undershirts and some underwear to try, so I guess I'm a convert."
-The undershirts are so soft and elastic that he had a hard time folding them, but that's obviously a lot less important than how they function when worn. This sounds to me like the perfect men's undergarment -- they feel great, and you couldn't even fold them if you tried.
-The V-neck was the perfect depth so he wouldn't have to worry about his t-shirt showing beneath his button-up.
-One of them did shed quite a lot after 1 or 2 washings, but after that he had no problems.
Thanks to Tom for the samples -- and for creating this much-needed product. You can check out Tommy John here.
Spring Must-Haves
I feel silly writing about Spring as I sit at my desk with the heat on blast, but I'm the positive type, and I know that in a few short weeks Spring will be here. In fact, I’ve already been shopping for warm weather clothes for my clients. Now is the perfect time for that, just as stores are loading up with their best selections. With that in mind, below are 6 garments to get you through the coming months in stellar style.
Lightweight jacket (bonus if it's suede or leather)Don’t underestimate the power of a perfectly-fitting leather jacket. Click for my guide on how to accomplish this. It’s the perfect reminder that Spring is just around the corner.
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Great-fitting polo shirts I have a new client who says he hasn’t met a polo shirt he didn’t like. My plan is to make him a touch more discerning. After all, everyone is wearing polo shirts. But not everyone gets it right (see Mitt’s missteps). Show some know-how, and make sure yours flatter you. Here's how your polo should fit, and how to stand out from the crowd when you're wearing one.
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No show socks These thin, low profile socks are must-haves for loafer-wearers. No one wants to see your short gym socks smushed into your shoes. Try Falke for this. Match them to the color of your shoes for added discretion.
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Nice gym clothes Many of my clients are implementing or upgrading their workout regimens this Spring. You don’t have to drop the same amount of coin on gym clothes as on your regular clothes, but the fact is if you like your workout clothes, and they feel good on, you’ll have a better workout. Keep it classy with Lululemon Men’s.
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Non-athletic sneakers I call these social sneaks. There are loads of different styles to choose from for this. The key is to keep it consistent with your own aesthetic so it doesn’t look like you’re trying too hard. Example: if you’re on the conservative side, you shouldn’t show up to Casual Friday in checkered Vans; instead, go for something simple and classic like a navy, white, or grey Jack Purcell or Rod Laver (above). Wear these when you’re walking around on weekends, or Fridays at work depending on your office environment. Reminder, these are NOT the sneakers you wear to the gym.
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Something linen Even if you’ve never worn linen, promise me you’ll try it this year. Linen is lightweight and breathable – perfect for those warm days when some airflow is welcome. I highly recommend pair of linen pants, an unstructured linen jacket and/or a linen shirt. You will thank me in July!
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What are you looking to add to your wardrobe this Spring? Drop me a line if you need some guidance.
Cheers, and Happy (almost) Spring!
Julie
Try a New Hide: Stingray
A lot of what I hear from new clients is a desire for what I call “Next Level Style”. Next Level Style is the development of a look that is uniquely one’s own, one that will make others sit up and take notice (but only to the degree wanted, of course!). One of my favorite things to do as a stylist is to seek out clothing and accessory items that will create that affect. No more walking into your office and seeing another guy in the same exact Brooks Brothers shirt and Ferragamo tie. With that goal in mind, today I’m shining the spotlight on stingray, a material you’ve possibly never heard of in relation to style.Stingray leather (also known as "shagreen") is extremely durable and has been used throughout history for everything from swanky armored clothing to sword handle wraps. Today in the fashion world, stingray is used on items ranging from wallets to shoes. One of the nice things about this skin is that stingrays aren't threatened by extinction, so its leather can be sourced easily, which also contributes to its relatively low pricing. In fact, stingrays are found in abundance in the shallow, warm waters of the Pacific Rim and are fished commercially as a primary food source.Here are my 6 favorite stingray items currently available that I hope will inspire you to get some new hides into your rotation.
1. These wallets above from Adam Unlimited ($80, left), and Bottega Veneta ($560, right) are sure to catch peoples' eyes when you pull one out of your pocket.
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2. Why not incorporate stingray into your dressier attire? These cufflinks ($275) would pop nicely against a grey suit, white dress shirt and a black and white or grey tie.
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3. I recently got this business card holder ($75) from a store called Unearthed on Etsy. I love the strong contrast of black with white. Each piece is customized, so you can tell them your color preference, and they'll select a hide to suit that.
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4. Interesting belts are an excellent way to mix things up from the usual black or brown leather. I like this one from Scunzani in dark (above), or light brown ($515).
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5. A piece of men's jewelry (a.k.a. "mewlery") can be one of the most rewarding items to add to your wardrobe when done right. I am very much into this bracelet ($175, above left), which would work well with most silver-toned watches. And if you want to throw some color into the mix, try this turquoise stingray and braided leather combo ($150, above right).
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6. Stingray shoes are not for the faint-hearted. These balmorals ($1195) from Harris (which I've highlighted previously) are so unique and interesting that they will surely be conversation starters. With this price tag though, you must be absolutely sure you love them before taking the leap!
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How do you like to up the style quotient? And would you wear stingray?Cheers to Next Level Style,Julie
"Before and After" Decoded
Have you seen my latest before and afters? I just added several updated sets to my new website. The before and after section is the most visited part of my site, so this week I’m lifting the hood to show you how it came together for my client in the images above: John Bailey. John is a Management Consultant, and he was looking to create a more appealing image for speaking and presentations. Here's how he described what he wanted to accomplish:“Take the package that is me - height, build, bone-structure, baldness and all - and create an image that says 'authority, approachable'".John is located in Oregon, so we did all our work via Skype and email. Here's how it went down:ColorThe black and silver color combo is too aggressive for business. In addition, because John’s head is bare, the black shirt is overly intense and stark on him – almost making him look like a floating head. Overall, he was coming off too strong in his before look. In contrast, the lavender shirt is more flattering, and in combination with the sportcoat, it’s friendly but authoritative.ProportionJohn is 5’ 8” and slightly stocky, so a main goal was to make him look longer and leaner. The diagonal lines of his sportcoat’s opening “V” are slimming and elongating, and pull him in at the waist. Paired with dark jeans, the jacket creates an overall monochromatic look that also makes him look taller and thinner. We had his jacket cut on the short side to make his legs appear longer.DetailThe peak lapel on John’s jacket draws the eye up toward his broad shoulders and his face in a flattering way. He looks sharp but approachable with his open collar.HairJohn had already ditched the moustache pre-Rath. Good call, John! The shaved head is a confident look (studies have been done on this – here’s a great article on the topic). Making the move from contacts to glasses made sense, as it adds dimension to his face so that he doesn't look so bare.With no head or facial hair, John’s look was vulnerable. He was attempting to strengthen that, but he was doing it in the wrong way. The end result was “trying too hard.” John says, "Men hate to ask for directions - and I think even more so about their appearance. It's an admission of helplessness - and perhaps seems a bit vain as well. I think that holds lots of guys back from success ... [Now] when I present professionally, the difference in how I feel – and therefore, how I carry myself – and the depth of the confidence I can project – is very significant."You can read more about John's work here. A very warm thank you to him for participating in this article!
Join Me Today!
Please join me at this great event above today. I'd love to meet you and help you pick out a V-Day gift and/or outfit!
Go Big or Go Home: Stingray Shoes
I am always in hot pursuit of outside-the-box items. That's what my clients hire me for as we construct looks that are uniquely their own. These shoes are not for everyone, but if they appeal to you, and you're looking to take an outfit from standard to stylish, I say get after it!
Five Genius Valentine's Day Date Ideas
Today's article is courtesy of the queen of romantic planning, Sarah Pease, The Proposal Planner (TM). Whether she's taking over the flight deck of the Intrepid for an epic proposal, or organizing the perfect picnic in Central Park, Sarah knows what's what when it comes to making romance happen.
For some, Valentine's Day is the most romantic day of the year filled with love, red roses and candlelit dinners. For others, it's a commercialized, manufactured holiday rife with cheesy teddy bears, silk boxer shorts and exorbitantly priced prix fixe menus. Regardless of your opinion, it's a great excuse for organizing a fun date with your loved one (even if it's just your most-loved friend!). Here are five of my favorite ideas for Valentine's Day:1) For the Wallet-Conscious: Create your own wine tasting. With a little research done online or with your local wine shop, select 2 reds and 2 whites and pair them with cheeses or chocolates. Using a scarf from your closet, conduct an official blind tasting by candlelight. Not only will you expand your knowledge of wines, but you'll also enjoy the flirty part of blindfolding each other! Budget not an issue? Hire a sommelier to do a private tasting!2) Starry Night: Research the hours at your local planetarium or night-sky observatory and arrange to have a private tour. Whether you're strapped into an IMAX seat watching the latest space-themed movie, or gazing at real stars in other galaxies, you'll be in a romantic mood under all those stars.3) Love is all Around: Plan an entire evening around love. Meet your sweetheart at the Museum of Sex near the Flatiron Building - who says a museum can't be fun? Once you've explored all the newest exhibits, head to your favorite cocktail bar to sip on the cocktails she loves. From there, treat her to her guilty-pleasure food - is it cheesy biscuits from Red Lobster? Coconut Invasion cake from Asia de Cuba? Tonight is the night to indulge. End the evening by sharing three reasons why you love each other.4) Futuristic Love: Want to know what the universe has in store for you? Do a psychic reading together! Make an appointment or stop in to see what the crystal ball or tarot cards say. If you really want to tempt fate, try a few different fortune tellers to see if their predictions overlap.5) Ice Skating and Hot Chocolate: Strap on your skates and join the crowds for a lively spin around the ice rink. If you're in New York, you can blend in with the tourists in Central Park, Rockefeller Center or Bryant Park, or discover some of the smaller rinks around the city. Reward all of your activity with a cab ride to City Bakery and test out the "drinkable chocolate" of the day. Got a sweet tooth? Plan to come back every other day for the rest of their Hot Chocolate Festival which runs the entire month of February. That way you can try a new flavor every night.Many thanks to Sarah for sharing her fantastic ideas. For more info on Sarah, check out her website. 
And now that you've got the best date ever planned, read here for what to wear.
How to Shape Up Your Closet
Do you avoid opening your closet door because you're afraid a tennis racquet is going to fall out on your head? Sporting goods aside, it's always nice to have a workable closet. Much of my client work is helping people to streamline and edit their wardrobes; trust me, I’ve seen it all in there…everything from bike pumps and paint cans to women's unmentionables. And that's all I'll say about that! So don't worry; no one is beyond help when it comes to getting a closet in shape.Here I am on a recent closet session checking out my client's go-to navy suit.
When your wardrobe contains only items you actually wear, it allows you to get your day started faster so that you can focus on what you do best – instead of worrying about where the pants to your gray pinstripe suit are. The first step to creating a closet that works for you is to set aside a couple of hours for a closet clearing. Below are 7 questions to ask yourself when considering each item:1. Is it in good condition? 2. Is it out of style or do you not like the style? 3. Is it relevant to your lifestyle? 4. Does the color look good on you? (to find out what colors look best on you, contact me). 5. Does it fit? 6. Have you worn it in the past year and a half? 7. Do you actually like it?If the answer to 2 or more of these is "no," then you can do better, and I'd recommend donating it. And if you’re too busy or don’t have the patience to do this yourself, call in a professional who can get the job done for you quickly and efficiently.Here's to starting 2013 with a functional closet that suits your needs.Cheers,Julie
Rath Resource: Peter Elliot Blue
Sometimes I forget how lucky I am to live and work in a city with so many fantastic style resources. But then I go into a store like Peter Elliot Blue, and in short order I'm reminded of how fortunate I am. The flagship Peter Elliot store opened on the upper east side in 1977 -- the first independent retailer to carry the line of another young style pioneer you may have heard of, Ralph Lauren. The store has a superb selection (suits/shirts/ties to outerwear to casual clothes and accessories) and is always gorgeously appointed, as you can see above and below. I love how the each pile of pants at left is cleverly wrapped in a belt.
If you haven't yet seen my Behind the Scenes video, part of it was shot at Peter Elliot Blue. Here I am, browsing before the shoot. The clients in the video couldn't get enough of the store either -- they each walked out with purchases!
If you haven't been over to Peter Elliot Blue yet, I encourage you to check it out. It's a true NYC style experience. The store is located at 997 Lexington Ave, at 72nd St.