Sock Matching 101

You may not have given much thought to your socks, but believe it or not, people do notice them. You could be wearing the most fantastic pair of shoes, but if the choice of socks is off, it up-ends the whole ensemble. When choosing socks to match your outfit, the common wisdom is that they should coordinate with your pants, as a way of elongating the leg. Of course as with anything else, there are exceptions to the rule. With a monochromatic look, or with khaki trousers and brown shoes, show some personality by sporting a colored sock in a solid or pattern. If wearing patterned socks appeals to you, and you want to take it a step further, select a motif that keys into and complements another element of your outfit: the pattern in your tie, sport jacket, or shirt for example. And whatever you do, make sure your socks are long enough such that when you sit down and cross your legs, your lower leg remains undercover.

Here is a basic combo I like:

And here's one that's a little more "advanced":

Basic: socks from The Sock House, $29.50; tie from Rag & Bone, $105.Advanced: socks from The Sock House, $24.75; tie from Fine and Dandy Shop, $49.

The Go-To Power Suit

Someone asked recently what my go-to power suit is. I think he was surprised when I gave my answer in three letters: F-I-T. It's not about what brand you're wearing because, after all, if your "killer" suit doesn't fit you, it's more or less harmless. Every client that comes to see me has different bodily proportions that dictate how his clothes will fit. If you have proportions that let you buy off the rack without any gapping or pulling, then lucky you. If not, then I recommend custom. When you want to bring out your big guns, nothing shows your in-the-knowness like a suit that fits like a glove. Go see my guys over at Michael Andrews Bespoke. They are the real deal custom, and you'll get a flawless fit every time. Plus, you're likely to spend less there than you would buying a luxury brand suit off the rack from a high-end department store. Not to mention that their new digs are the coolest surprise I've ever encountered down an NYC alley.

How to Dress for Fall

Yesterday was one of those strange days where on one block I'd pass a guy in a t-shirt and shorts and on the next would be a guy in a fur-lined jacket. Fall is, in my opinion, the best time of year to get dressed because it provides the opportunity to layer your favorite pieces so you can easily regulate your temperature. Layering takes the guesswork out of getting dressed when you're not sure what the day's weather will throw at you. Layered dressing also has the advantage of being more interesting than other styles because it leaves room for creativity in combinations of colors, accessories, textures, patterns, etc -- as long as you know how to mix them correctly. You're also not yet covering up your look with heavy duty outerwear, so you can easily show off your steez both inside and out.The first rule for layered dressing is to make sure that the pieces you incorporate are slim. You're better off using more thin layers than fewer thick ones in order to avoid a bulky look. And again, the more layers you use, the more opportunity for interesting juxtaposition.To begin, I suggest selecting a piece and building your look around it. Here are two combos I like:Now that summer is over, you can put those trusty polo shirts in the back of your closet and branch out. Consider the henley. GQ did a piece on it last month, urging guys to ditch their collars and try something new. While the magazine's model rocks his henleys on the snug side, I suggest you rock yours by wearing something fitted but without any pulling across the arms or chest. Think Dexter, not distressing.Try pairing a henley under a dressy sportcoat à la Brad Pitt above. I like this one John Varvatos Star USA microstripe henley ($125),with this velvet sportcoat ($225) from J. Crew.Then you layer the above two pieces over this crewneck t-shirt also from J. Crew in heathered coal ($36).The sheen of the velvet combine with the flat finish of the henley and the heather detail on the shirt, in a way that's just enough "look" without being over the top. Note: another great henley option is this one I found at Hollander and Lexer in Brooklyn recently..This next look I built around a Brunello Cucinelli vest that has inspired me before. I found it again at a great price on Bluefly, and this time I'll talk about it in light brown ($565.25), a major color for Fall.Put it on beneath this grey windowpane Michael Andrews Bespoke sportcoat, with a cotton pocket square (silk would be too dressy for this look), add a white or light blue shirt underneath, and it's game on. I like the idea of this striped cotton pocket square from Paul Smith ($40). The colors are a little unexpected, but it anchors the light grey-tan vest combo.The secret to easy layering is to make sure your closet is stocked with items that coordinate readily with one another. This will not only multiply your options, but it will also provide insurance against the "didn't he wear that yesterday?" factor.

Stetson by Billy Reid: Brawny Man Comes to the Big City

Check out this display of hats unexpectedly mixed with antique plates at Billy Reid’s Bond Street store. The toppers are from his collaboration with Stetson and are a gorgeous reflection of the Urban Brawny Man look that’s pretty much everywhere this Fall. You’ve got Stetson with its classic, field-tested hats mixed with Billy’s uniquely stylish vibe. Simply put, it's a match made in heritage chic heaven. The hats are English-Army inspired and made of tweed, herringbone and wool. They run $95-165 and are available in stores now and online starting tomorrow.

Beretta Suede Austrian Jacket

I saw this exceptionally handsome olive suede jacket at the Beretta Gallery on Madison Ave and 63^th St earlier today. I’m a big fan of the standup collar and the diamond stitching surrounding it. I was surprised to learn that the buttons are made from stag horn (not sure why seeing that Beretta has been making firearms since 1526). Makes me think of “Elk Tongue” – the man-mystique paint color Jack Donaghy from 30 Rock selects for his walls. The jacket is from the brand Schneiders, and it’s the Suede Austrian for $1375. There are all sorts of interesting-looking guns and knives in the back if you’re into that sort of thing – or if you want to hunt stag to make your own buttons. Full photo of the jacket below.

Rathie Spies: Brooks Brothers Friends & Family Fall Event

Brooks Brothers is offering a sweet 25% off all purchases starting tomorrow 9.23 and ending 9.27. Consider it a chance to beef up your Fall wardrobe. Below are my top picks.BB-Levis collaboration. Opt for the darker wash in either 501 original straight leg or the 514 slim fit ($148), which runs a little narrower. Pass on the 505 regular fit. Their high rise will take you into dad jean territory -- a land best left unchartered..The Merino Zip-Front Vest ($89.50) might not exactly be a sock-knocker, but I assure you that you'll get tons of wear out of it this season. It's the perfect layering piece to toss on beneath a blazer on brisk days, and this shade of gray is universally flattering..Speaking of sweaters, if you felt like upping the ante, you could check out this Black Fleece Polo Sweater ($350). I love its unexpected details: grosgrain trim on the placket,  button-down collar and five buttons down the front (two more than you'd normally see). It's all very Royal Tenenbaums..For cold weather, you can't go wrong with a wool necktie. Those in plaid or tweed above ($125) each are a great option. They're seasonally appropriate, and they'll also keep your neck warm. If you're a pocket square lover, pair textured neckwear like this with a silk square. The contrast of textures will make the combo visually appealing.A link to the F&F invite is below.Brooks Brothers F&F Fall 2010 Invite

Rugby Ralph Lauren Herringbone Varsity Blazer

I just spotted this Herringbone blazer with very cool collegiate details in the window of the Rugby Ralph Lauren store down on University Place in NYC (212.677.1895). I love the rich leather slit pockets and the colorful knit action on the sleeves and collar. A modern mix of an all-star jacket with a prep-school blazer. More Back to School goodness for $348.

Rath & Co.'s Back to School Edition

Growing up, whenever a new school year rolled around, the only thing that made me not want to hide in the Indian Burial Ground near my house was the prospect of getting new clothes, particularly that all-important first day outfit. At this point in my life, I don’t really have an excuse to get a new Fall wardrobe every year but the idea persists. For Back to School 2010, I’m making my selections from a male perspective. So here you have what I would choose for back to school if I were a guy…As you may have heard before, you are way TOO COOL to be still wearing a backpack. A messenger bag, on the other hand, is the perfect fit for one’s manly carrying needs. I’ve been lusting over this Moore & Giles beauty ($485) in Nubuck Bison for some time. It would house my laptop perfectly (I measured – I’m good like that). I love the texture on both the bag and the shoulder strap. This bag crush is not going away anytime soon..Next up on my hit list is a pair of jeans from Billy Reid's collection for Levi's. The designer's prize for winning GQ's Best New Designer Award was to collaborate with Levi's and create a collection of tailored workwear denim. The results go on sale September 10, at 12:01 AM Eastern Time..You can never have too many well-fitting shirts, so here again I'm hitting up Billy Reid and his "dressy-casual whiskey-soaked style." The John T. shirt ($195) in blue & green strikes me as a nice way to incorporate some darker Fall colors without looking drab. Very cool how they've matched up the seams in back to create diagonals in the pattern (see below) -- a little extra Southern flavor on that flavor. I like it with these brown pants, but I'd also like to see it with charcoal grey, either on bottom or as a sweater or jacket...It's a little out there, but I could so rock this Barney's printed wool bow tie ($75). The patterned shirt actually tones down the loudness of this piece's message..If you're boot-obsessed like me, then you too hold the belief that no Fall shopping trip would be complete without a new pair of boots. Right now, I'm definitely vibing with the Diemme Roccia Vet boot (€280), which come from a collaboration between Diemme and Japanese retailer Beauty & Youth United Arrows. With the contrast stitching and colored laces and soles, they strike the perfect balance between stylish and masculine. They come in a couple different colorways -- my pick for myself would be the brown with blue laces above. You can get them here..My final picks are this cotton trench coat ($160) and lightweight denim scarf ( $24), both from Topman. Budget-friendly and machine-washable: doesn't get much better than that....school's back in session!

Scotch & Soda Brings Amsterdam Style to New York City

Amsterdam-based Scotch & Soda finally found its way here into the US, opening their flagship store in NYC's Nolita just 2 days ago. I ran in briefly today to check it out in person. The place was absolutely jamming. They had a number of youthful, urban-prep pieces including jeans, khakis and sport shirts, but the crinkled wool blend blazer below ($235) caught my eye immediately with its stylish details. I'm particularly into its black fabric + white stitching beneath the collar, patch pockets and striped cotton lining. This blazer strikes the perfect balance for Fall: it's at once both neatly tailored and ruggedly ready-for-anything.

Rathie Spies: Hollander and Lexer Sale Alert (TONS of Linen!)

I dropped into the imaginative, spooky-meets-elegant menswear shop Hollander and Lexer on Atlantic Ave in Brooklyn this week just as new Fall items were being unpacked and put onto racks among a number of summer sale pieces. If you're fighting a losing battle with the heat even at this point in the summer, I'd suggest checking the place out: they've got a great selection of linen, much of which is seriously marked down.Below are a few of my favorite pieces along with a couple of looks I put together mixing and matching from Summer and Fall.Hollander and Lexer lightweight cotton checked jacket (originally $240, now $120) with Schiesser's supersoft henley ($140). The wide shawl collar and print on this jacket give it a really unique vibe, and the buttons on the henley lend some visual interest -- as opposed to just a plain t-shirt but also without overpowering the blazer the way a graphic shirt often can.EM's of MASONS cotton-linen blend khakis (originally $190, now $95). Fantastically lightweight: airflow is a good thing!Rag & Bone lightweight jeans (originally $265, now $132.50). Love the chipped paint detail on the buttons -- makes me think of a sink in a decrepit old clinic somewhere.Hollander and Lexer navy linen jacket with cotton lining (originally $425, now $212). Great interesting details like the vertical slit pockets and epaulets.I don't often make it to the outer boroughs, but this trip was worth it!

Rathie Spies: J. Crew Sale Alert

I was trolling J. Crew's website today in search of sale items for a client and found all kinds of markdown goodness. Now is the perfect time to scoop up those "nice to haves" -- things that aren't a necessity but would be a useful addition to your wardrobe if the price is right. J. Crew is offering an additional 30% off all sale items until midnight on Thursday, and shipping is free if you spend over $150. I love this grey linen shirt, originally $69.50, on sale for $34.99.For an end of summer backyard shindig, pair it with these navy shorts (originally $49.50; now $27.99),and these Sperry boat shoes (originally $118; now $69.99),...roll up your sleeves, and you're good to go!(Sale code is "SHOPNOW".)

Casual Friday — Rath & Co.’s Top Tips

In case you missed it, Rath & Co. was featured on last Friday's The Early Show talking Casual Friday and what people can and can't get away with. The video can be seen here. Below are more thoughts on the topic:

• When Casual Friday rolls around, make sure you don't forget that you're still going to work, so some level of "business" needs to be involved. They always say to dress for the job you want, and that's a good rule of thumb. If you're going to the beach straight from work, you can find somewhere along the way to stop and change. Swim trunks + office does not lead to promotion!
• Guys should beware of wearing shorts to work. Everyone is fitness conscious these days -- that's great. We know you spend hours at the gym working on your quads, but you don't need to display those gams at work! A little mystery doesn't hurt.
• I saw a guy walking down the street recently in dress pants and carrying his dress shirt with a messenger bag slung across his shirtless torso. It looked uncomfortable and beyond strange. Instead of tearing off your clothes as soon as you hit the elevator, look for light colors and breathable fabrics like linen and lightweight cotton. I also like a blend of microfiber polyester and rayon because it wicks moisture away from the skin and doesn't wrinkle easily in humidity.
• If you work in a creative field like advertising and want to wear whatever you please so that you're comfortable enough to channel that inspiration, be sure you're not doing so in a way where you show too much skin. There are plenty of other ways to express creativity: bright colors, fun patterns (like the purple plaid Billy Reid shirt in image above) and unique accessories like an interesting belt from APC or a punchy tie bar from J. Press over a knit tie (see below).

Happy Friday!

WWMFW (What Would Mr. Fox Wear): Breuer's Knit Ties

You may think I’m all kinds of crazy for saying so, but some of the coolest clothes I have seen recently were worn by animals. Not just any animals, but rather the fanged, furry stars of Wes Anderson’s The Fantastic Mr. Fox, which I finally saw on video a few nights ago. These critters sport beautifully tailored suits, sumptuous knits, and cozy corduroy, all of which have me jonesing for some brisk Fall weather. Of course, the blazing NYC summer is still in full effect, but the fact is, Fall/Winter clothes have already dropped, and you’d be hard pressed to find a decent selection of summer gear anywhere other than at a sample sale.And so it was no surprise yesterday that when breezing through Bergdorf’s men’s department, I was immediately drawn to these relaxed but stylish cashmere and wool-silk blend neckties by Breuer for Bergdorf Goodman ($145-175). They would be perfect for a fox, badger, gopher, or yes a person, on those frigid winter days when even your eyeballs are cold. Particularly well-suited to those in a creative field, these ties manage to offer both a bit of self-expression and a nod to business dress. These bad boys are great with tweed suits or rough-textured odd jackets. I’d also like to see them worn more casually with a denim shirt. A four-in-hand or any simple tie knot is best here, as this fabric is thicker than that of most ties, and you want to keep your knot proportional to your face. These ties might look more relaxed, but if worn properly, they’ll give you an extra edge. So make like an animal and prepare early for Winter -- it'll be here before you know it.

Ever Wonder What Colors to Wear?

If you've ever wondered what colors will bring out the handsome devil in you, you might want to consider having a color analysis done. This is a process by which someone trained in color drapes you in various fabrics to determine your optimal color palette. The idea is that the "right" colors will brighten skin tone, even out complexion, smooth skin texture, balance the shapes of your features and make you appear rested and younger. The "wrong" colors will dull skin and drain your coloring, making you appear tired and sallow...not cool at all!Check out this video of me with the ever-dynamic Mary Schook on a Chinese news hour that aired this past weekend. In it, we discuss how colors relate to the Asian population, namely women. Yes, color analysis may sound super girly, but it's of particular relevance to guys, and here's why: women can get away with wearing the "wrong" colors because they use makeup to help negate any ill effects those colors may have on how their skin looks. Most men, however, don't wear makeup, so it's crucial if they want to make flattering clothing choices that they know what colors will look fantastic on them.If you're in the New York Tri-State Area or metro-Boston and are interested in getting your colors done officially (and in English), contact me.

How to Wear Mandals: Tips on Avoiding a Fugly Fashion Mishap

Mandals: the name alone evokes snickers, sneers, and talk of Volvos and wheatgrass. Urban Dictionary defines them as, "An unfortunate fugly fashion mishap involving sandals."  But I'm here to tell you that the wearing of mandals doesn't have to be such a hot mess. If you choose wisely, you can avoid embarrassing questions like "how was your hike?" when all you are doing is riding the cross town bus.When it comes to mandals, less is more. Think fewer straps, buttons and buckles, just say no to velcro, and you’ll be in good shape. As Tim Gunn says, "The more seriously one takes the mandal, the more ridiculous one looks." Here are some of my fav options available now…$100 and underYou can't go wrong with a classic leather thong sandal like these. They're simple, easy and summery but not as informal as your standard beach flip flop. Throw them on with jeans or chinos, and it's a done deal..I'm also very into these Mirage Sandals from J Shoes. The stitching, canvas and rivets give them a cool industrial feel. Originally $148, they're now marked down to $49.99. Check them here..These First by Jeffrey Campbell huaraches caused a stir when they first appeared on the Loden Dager runway last Fall. If you prefer more coverage than other sandals or flip flops provide, huaraches are a great way to achieve that while still letting your feet breathe. Plus you gotta love their handsome Latin American vibe..I like the added detail of the croc stamping on these leather bad boys from Cole Haan. It gives the look some visual interest and dresses them up slightly..$100-$200Still dressier are these babies from Saks. The leather has a rich, luxurious feel. They would work well with a seersucker or linen suit..If flip flops don't do it for you, check out these woven slides from John Varvatos. I like the variation in texture between the different straps. Also on sale now, these were originally $175..$200 and upThese sandals from Ferragamo don't fail to impress with their contrast stitching and subtly-detailed hardware. A little panache goes a long way..For a more lively look -- or, if you're heading to St. Tropez, and you want to make like the locals -- check out these limited edition Barigoule sandals from K. Jacques' first ever collaboration with Opening Ceremony. They're the Jesus sandal on holiday.Of course, it goes without saying that if you're going to bare your toes, make sure they're clean and well-tended to, and whatever you do, don't combo up your mandals with socks:Socks + Mandals = Fugly Fashion Mishap for sure.

Profile in Awesomeness: Neal O.

I was walking up 6th Ave the other day when I came across this cool cat. Meet Neal Ohm (brilliant last name -- a constant reminder to stay chill). This guy knows how to put together an eye-catching ensemble. It's no surprise that fashion is in his blood -- his grandmother started the women's department at Barneys with the Pressman family back in the 70s.Here are the deets on his look: navy windowpane suit from Dolce & Gabbana, French cuff shirt Brooks Brothers, bowtie Robert Talbott, shoes Paul Smith, shades $10 off the street, and pinup girl cuff links vintage from a London flea market (the dreaded iPhone camera did not come through for me on my shots of these, but trust me, they were way cool).

Men's Style: What to Wear on July 4

I can’t think of a more American brand to give a quick shout out to on this most American of all American holidays than Gant, even if the company is now Swedish-owned. Gant was founded by Bernard Gant, an industrious Ukranian immigrant whose dream was to become "a real American." His first job off the boat in 1914 was sewing shirt collars in a sweatshop in NYC's garment district. In 1941, he started his namesake line, which epitomizes tried and true American style -- "casual, comfortable, reflecting the good life and leisurely lifestyles on the American East Coast."I snapped this picture of a Gant handloom madras shirt, known as “The Hugger” at the very cool, industrial-inspired Gant Rugger store ($115; 353 Bleecker St; 212.620.5949). This lightweight, ultrasoft cotton charmer would be a sound choice for a weekend that I sure hope finds you in full-on cocktail, bbq and firework mode. The good life and leisurely lifestyle indeed!Check out the stealth pinup girl patch hidden behind the cuff. She looks ready for the long weekend too...

Happy bday America!

Wedding Attire: Non-Tux Alternatives for Grooms

As seen on the Brilliant Event Planning blog.Every groom should look dashing at his wedding. If the dress code permits, ditch the tux in favor of a well-chosen, perfectly-fitting suit. The beauty of buying a knock-out suit is that once you have it, you can wear it for different occasions like job interviews or other important events. It’s a wise use of your wedding budget, and all guys look fantastic in a well-fitted suit.Here are some of my top tips on suiting up your wedding:

1. Color: A navy or grey suit with a white shirt and black shoes are excellent options. If you’re not asking your groomsmen to buy the same exact suit as yours (which is a great way to build goodwill with them, especially if budget is an issue), you should give them guidance on color. In this situation, opt for navy because if you just tell them, “buy grey suits,” you’ll end up with all different shades and patterns. Black can work too, but it’s a strong color that not everyone looks good in, so go with the easier-to-wear navy.
2. Time of Day: If your wedding is a more casual, daytime affair, you can wear a navy blazer, shirt, and tie with khaki, grey or seersucker pants. To look really pulled together with this option, match the metals of your belt buckle and watch to the buttons on your blazer. So if your buttons are gold, wear a gold buckle and a gold watch. With silver-tone buttons, opt for silver accessories.
3. Ties: Neckwear provides a nice way to coordinate with the color the bridesmaids are wearing and with the color scheme of the overall event. Look for ties that pick up on colors that will appear elsewhere in the wedding. If you’re wearing a suit and you’d rather stick to a more classic and simple style for yourself, try a long white or silver tie, and let your groomsmen do the color thing. That way, you’ll have a look that pulls the event together as a cohesive whole.

A Very Vintage Father's Day

My IT guy Vince showed up at a recent appointment armed not only with mad computer skills but also with a tote bag full of vintage vests. He had been digging through his family's attic when he came across a boatload of impeccably cared for vests that his father bought in the late 70's. His dad is an auditor for the NYC MTA.  According to Vince, "modesty is probably the best quality he's shown me."Below is a picture of my most treasured possession from my dad. This old school beauty dates back to his fraternity days in the late 50's and early 60's. It takes softness to another level. Sadly, in a moment of unclear high school thinking, I cut off too much from the bottom. The crop top thing is a little much -- even for this child of the 80's. So it rarely makes an appearance out of doors. The best quality my dad taught me was the importance of hard work and perseverance in overcoming adversity.So on this Father's Day, thank you for the vintage attic finds, for the hand-me-downs, and most of all, for being dad.

Profile in Awesomeness: Ross D.

I met Ross D. at a party a few months back, and after one look at him, I knew we had to talk. That nonchalance! That haircut! Here was a guy who owns his look, whether it's a jean jacket and t-shirt or his "ride or die" vintage leather jacket. So I asked him a few questions...Rath: What do you do?Ross: I work in music. I do songwriter/producer management.Rath: Where do you hang out?Ross: I live in SoHo and pretty much never leave the downtown area. All my friends make fun of me. Going uptown is like a major travel commitment for me. The Upper East Side might as well be New Hampshire.Rath: Are you thinking of signing that guitarist behind you?Ross: If he can play "Stairway to Heaven" with his eyes closed, standing on one foot, while balancing a pineapple on this head then it's a done deal.Rath: What do you wear to a meeting with songwriters or producers?Ross: I usually wear whatever I feel comfortable in. The great thing about working in music is so can dress however you like. It enables you to express yourself creatively, which I feel ultimately helps foster both a creative and productive work environment.Rath: What's your favorite NYC music venue?Ross: I really like Bowery Ballroom. They always have good shows and the vibe is great.  Brooklyn Bowl is a cool venue as well. Who wouldn't like kicking their friends asses in bowling while listening to great music?!Rath: What sort of outfit do you usually wear when you go there?Ross: I usually wear whatever I'm wearing to work, etc.  However, recently I saw Hole play. I felt obligated to wear flannels and grunge it up.Rath: Where do you shop for clothes?Ross: Pretty much everywhere. In the words of my mom "Living in SoHo in like living in a mall". She is right. It is hard to step outside without buying anything. Trust me, I have the bills to prove it.  I love vintage clothes. Eleven on Elizabeth is one of my favorites. LA has GREAT vintage. Jet Rag on La Brea is hard to beat.Rath: What's your favorite outfit?Ross: Definitely my black vintage motorcycle jacket. It took me forever to find the perfect one, but when I did I knew this was my "ride or die" jacket. I love the fact that the damn thing will outlive me and will probably end up right back in a vintage store someday being someone else's "amazing find". Full circle. Gotta love that.Rath: Where did you get that rad haircut?Ross: Amy at Arte Salon. She is the best. Not only does she give me a dope haircut every time, but she gives me whiskey too!Rath: Do you spend much time on hair styling, or are you a wash and wear guy?Ross: I'm definitely a wash and wear guy.  Bed head was the best thing to happen to guys since ESPN.  I wonder who the genius was that invented this look? Probably some hungover guy that was too lazy to comb his hair before work one day and just owned it. Brilliant.Rath: Do you have any men's style pet peeves?Ross: Wow I have a lot. First off, those knit hats with the baseball brims. They are the worst. This leads me to my next pet peeve...guys that wear knit hats in warm weather. If you are having a bad hair day or whatever just put on a baseball hat. I also really hate sandals. Good for the pool/beach but bad for everyday life. Who in the hell wants to see a man's hairy feet?!